Hot Days, Cold Wine
Three French Wine Recommendations for a Super Chill Summer
What are you drinking this summer? As temperatures heat up on the East Coast, I’ll be pouring bright, citrusy wines with enough personality and texture to entertain seasonal bounties like New England seafood, strawberries, garden salads, and stone fruit. Next time you visit your favorite wine shop, reach for one of these quaffable French wines.
Domaine Guiberteau Saumur Blanc 2023
The Loire Valley produces some of the world’s best white wine. In fact, restaurants will be damned to leave money on the table if Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre is not poured by the glass. I have noticed a recurring pattern of patrons saying, “I’ll have a glass of Sancerre,” without perusing the menu, and that’s no fault of the American palate. We’re creatures of habit. What if I told you that Chenin Blanc from Vouvray and Saumur, appellations west of Sancerre, is as crisp and delicious as Sancerre? Styles range from dry to off-dry and sparkling. Domaine Guiberteau’s minimal intervention approach to wine places him among notable producers featured on natural wine lists, such as Dear Annie in Cambridge. The wine is clean and focused with ripe and vibrant verdant fruits. Ripe green apple, fresh lime, and a focused minerality reflect the purity of the Loire’s diverse soils.
Clos Cibonne Cuvée Tradition 2023
Deep in the heart of southeastern France lies Provence, a region renowned for its pale rosés, which are perfect for sipping on hot summer days. It’s refreshing and satisfying, and production can range from simple to complex characteristics. Clos Cibonne produces a respectable wine from 30-year-old Tibouren vines that has become a sommelier’s summer crush. Unlike other Provence rosés that use a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre as the dominant grapes, Clos Cibonne ferments 90 percent Tibouren and 10 percent Grenache in stainless steel tanks before it ages 12 months in 120+ year-old foudres (large oak barrels). Dried clementines and apricots complement the salinity of an ocean breeze that defines this high-quality wine.
Herve Souhaut Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet Blanc 2022
Floral and aromatic white wines from the Rhone Valley capture the sunshine, just as red wines from Châteauneuf-du-Pape inhale the wind. Not only do these wines gain breadth and concentration during the growing season, particularly in favorable vintages, but they also mature and develop into a pleasurable experience defined by the diverse terroir. Influences from the natural elements of the Rhone vary from north to south; the soil shifts from granite to limestone, temperatures tend to be cooler in the north, and the elevation in the south is flat compared to the steep terraces found in northern villages, such as Côte-Rôtie. Enough with the climate and terrain; allow me to introduce you to Hervé Souhaut. His Viognier and Roussanne blend transports me to a field of white flowers dancing in the wind. Aromas of Jasmine, Gardenia, and Orange Blossom sing with purpose, tropical fruits synthesize the cadence of a lovely ballad, and notes of oak and spice hum in the background. Rhone Valley whites deserve more attention, especially wines made with Grenache Blanc and Clairette.
